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Mold inspection

what to do if you have a leak

what to do if you have a leak

what to do if you have a leak

You may not like the answer but here it is.  Most homes today have drywall used for their walls. IF drywall ( aka “sheetrock”) is allowed to remain wet for more than 48 hours it will almost certainly contain growth mold.  So, the trick is to dry it out as fast as possible.  Mold cannot be removed from drywall.  So you must remove the drywall.  This includes drywall that is behind cabinets and built-ins. So the answer to the question of what to do if you have a leak, is not as simple as it may seem.

what to do if you have a leak What to do if you have a leak

(typical dry-down)                               (This WAS dried down and was “fine”) hmm..

This is what a typical dry down company will do when responding to a water loss.  But what is wrong with this picture? Note that the drywall on the side of the framing members we can see is removed, while the other side of the wall the drywall remains.  If water impacts one side of the wall, surely it will impact the other as well.  So if that other side is not dry within 48 hours there will be mold growth; even if you cannot see it!

What to do if you have a leak

That can be tricky if say there are cabinets and the leak is under your sink and the drywall that became wet is behind the cabinets.  The simple rule of thumb is that if drywall has become wet for more than 48 hours; simply remove it.  If in the alternative your walls are plaster, then again that is a bit more tricky.  But as a general rule simple attempt to dry it within 48 hours.

  1. First remove all contents that have become wet from the affected area.
  2. Remove drywall and insulation from exposed areas to afford air flow to impact the wall cavities.   * if this is an older leak, or a leak in an area that has leaked before, be sure you have proper containment and separation of air space prior to removing any building materials.  If when you remove any building materials, you see discoloration or dark growth.  Stop and call a professional asap.
  3. Separate the area of the water loss from the rest of the home.
  4. remove carpeting and padding.  Discard the padding.
  5. use dehumidifiers and blower fans INSIDE of the contained area.
  6. Check the moisture level of the impacted walls comparing the moisture level of a similar non impacted wall.  I.e. interior wall facing South impacted by the loss to interior wall facing South in non impacted area.  IF there is any anomaly note after 48 hours, then abandon dry down efforts and move to more invasive measures.

It is a good idea to test surfaces that appear to be clean for mold.  We use ATP rapid assay analysis to immediately determine if there is growth or not.

See our article on water damage handled incorrectly here   We as well have another article on water damage you can see here.

 

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How to make an inexpensive HEPA filter

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This article will show you how to make your own DIY HEPA filter for cleaning the air inside of your home.  It is important when removing mold, that you ensure that the spores that are released during those efforts do not distribute into other areas which could cause a problem.  HEPA filtration is what is used to catch errant spores that are released in the air.  A good commercial HEPA filter costs upwards of $1,200 dollars and the filter cartridges are about $250 each give or take a bit.  As well the “pre-filters” used are expensive.  So, they are impractical for use in typical clean up activities by a homeowner.  You can’t really rent them either.  So what do you do?

This article The intention of this filter is for any temporary clean up projects.  For the purpose of ensuring that you do not make a small problem worse, this will do the trick.

Ok, so what does HEPA mean anyhow?

HEPA stand for: “High-Efficiency-Particulate-arresting”  Meaning that a HEPA filter has holes in the filter that are large enough to allow air to pass, but small enough to catch 99,8% of all spores and contaminants and trap them.  Think of a screen door.  If the holes were too big insects would get into your home.  If the holes were too small, you wouldn’t be able to see through the screen which would defeat its purpose.  So, the openings are sized correctly for its purpose.  The same with a HEPA filter.[/two-thirds] [/columns_container]

Here is what you need to make a great DIY HEPA filter.

a typical box type fan.  A HEPA rated allergen return filter (any brand will do as long as it is allergen/or HEPA rated.  There are designations MERV ‘XX’ you may see.  Try to get a MERV 13 or higher.  The filter only needs to be large enough to cover the exhaust portion of the fan (or use 2 of them).  You can use a bigger one and cut it.  Doesn’t matter.  The important part is covering the exhaust entirely and taping that seal to the outside of the exhaust.  The last ingredient is Duct tape (no not Duck tape; but Gorilla tape works great.

  1. fit the filter(s) to the exhaust side of the fan.
  2. Tape the filters to the outside of the fan ensuring that the air that passes from the fan, is covered by the filters.  Meaning when you tape over the edges of the filter to the fan, there is no air allowed to escape from the fan that isn’t going through the filter first.
  3. place the fan ideally adjacent to where you are working and if you can, at an open window or door such that the air flow is facing OUT of the home.  if you want to be creative, you can even attach a small piece of 10 or 12″ duct material to the exhaust and then simply run that outside. Remember the air that comes OUT of the fan will be filtered, but if you create air flow drawing air from inside of the home TO the outside of the home, you have created a bit of negative pressure.  This is good because then any spores that are aerosolized during the work, will be naturally drawn into the filter and out of the home.  This will also create a stronger attraction so to say to the intake portion of the filter itself. Its complicated physics, but it works.
  4. Turn it on and viola!  A great commercial grade HEPA filter.

 

After you have used the homemade HEPA filter and when you turn it off, take it outside immediately, remove the filters from the rear of the fan and discard them.

A word about containment or separating the “work area”

it is important that (even for the smallest mold project) that you separate the work area. This is an entire separate topic which I will publish something on soon.  However the basic principle is to separate off the air space in the area you are working.  You can use plastic, tape closed a door whatever.  There are many methods.  The best way is to seal off the area in plastic (sort of an isolation room if you will), then buy a zip closure from your local hardware store (about $9 dollars or so) and create your entry and exit to that isolation area.  With your homemade HEPA filter running, if you can, direct the air flow out of that work area to the outside.  Viola, now you have your own containment area and negative pressure environment to work in.  More physics.. But it works.

You now have a very effective commercial grade HEPA filter for your clean up projects for under $60 dollars!  Renting a commercial one is over $60 dollars per day!

 

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Real estate transactions Uncategorized

Case study on inaccurate air samples

 Case study on inaccurate air samples

Location- Santa Barbara California 

Problem:  Our case study of inaccurate air samples is centered on a home in escrow for $3.9 million dollars that was re built from the ground construction budget was $2.5 million dollars.  In connection with the escrow and proposed purchase, a mold inspection was performed by industrial hygiene company.  In their inspection they identified no problems in the home with respect to mold.  Their principal focus was NOT the investigation but to collect exhaustive air samples from inside of the home; although an inspection was performed and they could NOT identify any issues visibly.  Several air samples were collected and the results of those samples revealed severe anomalies and elevated mold spore counts in the home directly causing the prospective purchaser to cancel the transaction.   The couple who owned the home were told by the Mold inspection company that since they found such high levels of mold spores, but could not find any issues, that the only solution to solve this was to literally remove every interior wall from the framing and strip the house.  Their bid was in excess of $150,000 dollars for this work and it was estimated that replacing the removed finishes would cost between $250-350,000 dollars depending upon what materials would be used.  This is why we wrote this case study on inaccurate air samples.

Location: Single family residence, Santa Barbara California near the ocean.

Construction: Complete ground up, new construction.  Raised foundation single family two story home.  Ample crawl space that was observed to be damp and have strong musty odors.

Crawlspace description/openings: The crawl space under the home contained several openings from understructure into home (“thermal bypasses”) enabling for routing air exchange between the foundation and the interior air space of the home.

Observations in the initial report:  While the inspection appeared somewhat comprehensive with respect to sample data, there were several deficiencies in the investigation itself.  Further, the single largest issue is that the inspection company identified the substructure of the premises as being on “slab foundation” and not a suspended foundation with a crawl space.  Clearly the company (name withheld) was incorrect.

Conclusions of their report which caused the transaction to fail:

Our case study on inaccurate air samples shows that after not identifying any issues the hygienist elected to collect “precautionary air samples” in order to assess if there were issues in the home with respect to mold problems.   The results of the air samples collected showed several anomalies (problems) in the indoor air quality and caused the attending hygienist to conclude:

  1. “Highly elevated levels of fungi spores (mold spores) were found…”   Further, some of the spores identified were listed as;
  2. “Considered to be toxic and may cause serious health risks.”   Further in the report, the hygienist goes on to say that;
  3. “A trained professional should identify any associated water source that led to the problem”   Although the report itself did NOT identify any issues in the home nor any areas that appeared to be impacted by elevated moisture content in the building materials.
  4. “No areas of elevated moisture levels were detected at the time of the inspection.”

Although the hygienist doing the inspection could not identify any issues, he concluded that the home was:

UNSAFE AND CONTAMINATED!   HIGHLY ELEVATED LEVELS OF MOLD SPORES; SOME OF WHICH WERE CONSIDERED TOXIC.

this was wrong and our case study on inaccurate air samples shows you why!

Our analysis:

We briefly examined the home in light of the air sample data collected and the conclusions of the report.  In examining the laboratory data collected in the previous inspection we observed that the air in the lower area of the home appeared to be significantly worse than elsewhere in the home; although all areas inside of the home appeared to be compromised.  Immediately we were able to determine that the previous hygienist incorrectly categorized the construction type of the premises as being built on slab when in fact there is a crawlspace below the lower level that spans the entire portion of the lower area of the home.  Upon examination of the crawlspace itself the area was damp, musty and in need of drying.  Further, when we examined the underside of the rooms on the lower level we identified several openings from the crawlspace up into the lower area of the home.  The openings observed were both for routing conduits as well as simple random open spaces and unsealed areas.  When openings from the crawlspace to the lower floor are present, this provides an easy path for air exchange between the crawlspace and the interior living space of the home.  Simple physics (temperature differences) causes air molecules to be attracted upwards into the interior living space of the home.

This is an example of a typical opening observed in the understructure of the home.  There were other openings and areas in the crawlspace that enabled air exchange between the foundation and the interior of the home.

case study on inaccurate air samples

Our Action Plan:

After a brief examination of the premises we concluded that indeed the reason for the elevated levels observed in the initial study was on account of the air exchange between the crawlspace and the interior of the premises.  Our mitigation plan included, but was without limitation to, the following steps:

1)      The entire premises was professionally HEPA vacuumed using commercial grade HEPA rated HEPA vacuums.  This included all of the lower and upper areas of the home, bedrooms, bathrooms, closets, cabinet interiors and exteriors, light fixtures, detail finish work.

2)      All horizontal surfaces and walls in the entire home were wiped with a mild surfactant to remove any dust that may have had mold spores attached.

3)      Commercial grade 500 CFM HEPA filters were placed inside the home during the above cleaning to trap any spores released during the cleaning process.

4)      The carpets inside the home were professionally cleaned and then again after the cleaning professionally HEPA vacuumed.

5)      Negative pressure was established under the home in the crawlspace using 500 CFM commercial grade HEPA filters and taping off access points of the crawlspace.

6)      Any damp moist soil turned over and/or removed from the area.  Any organic materials or soil that appeared to have organic materials in it was removed and disposed of.

7)      The understructure was wiped down in any areas that appeared to have any physical organic material on them.  All mold present in the understructure on substrates (other than the dirt itself) was sanded, cleaned and disinfected.

8)      All openings from the understructure up into the home were sealed off with self-expanding foam and or silicone caulk.  Larger areas where openings existed building materials that were pretreated with mold resistant sealer were applied to the openings and sealed using silicone caulk.

9)      Understructure fans were installed inside of the crawlspace with the intent to assist in keeping the crawlspace dry and free from moisture and create negative pressure under the crawlspace which would remain constant.  This would assist in preventing any air exchange from the crawlspace into the home.

An example of a typical patch placed on the underside of the crawlspace sealing off the opening up into the home.

case study on inaccurate air samples

Image of fan installation and wide view of crawlspace in the home.  Note that 3 fans were installed and air flow was directed out of the crawlspace vents on 3 sides of the foundation.

 case study on inaccurate air samples

Our Laboratory Results:

The air samples we collected after sealing off the openings to the crawlspace showed a dramatic improvement in the indoor air quality of the home and no abnormalities with respect to elevated mold spore counts were identified.

case study on inaccurate air samples

The table represents the total spores per cubic meter of air as compared to the outdoor sample collected at the time of each air quality study.  In the initial air quality study the total spore counts inside were between 107% and 318% of what was identified as present in the general atmosphere at the time of the study.  The downstairs guest room being the worst should more than 3 times the number of spores present inside the room as compared to outside.  Right behind that was the master bedroom which showed 285% of the spores found outside.  After the understructure was sealed and the openings from home into the crawlspace closed off our air study showed a dramatic increase in indoor air quality and reduction of mold spores.  In our study we found only 25% number of spores in the downstairs guest room as compared to the general atmosphere at the time.  This represents a 1260% increase in indoor air quality.  Similar dramatic increases were observed in the other rooms of the home.

In analyzing indoor air quality, samples are collected in various rooms and an outdoor control sample is collected.  The spore counts per cubic meter of the individual samples are compared to the spore counts per cubic meter of the outdoor control sample.  As the general composition of mold/pollen spores changes day to day with atmospheric conditions you cannot simply evaluate spore counts by themselves inside of a home but rather in context with the general outdoor conditions present at the time of the sample collection.  In making a true “apples to apples” type comparison, the table above represents the analysis in context with the original control sample collected.  Both sets of air samples were processed by the same laboratory.

Conclusions:

The initial study did not take into account that design and construction issues that existed; namely that openings to the understructure were present allowing air exchange between the crawlspace of the home and the interior air space.  Initial air sample analysis confirm this.  After the understructure openings were sealed off and the resultant spores which had entered the home removed via thorough cleaning and the indoor air quality of the home showed to be in good condition.  A dramatic improvement of up to 1260% was seen when the openings from the crawlspace into the home were sealed off.

The collection of air samples confirmed that the air exchange between the crawlspace and the interior of the home was the root cause for the observed elevated spore counts.

 

 

 

 

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Real estate transactions Uncategorized

How a crawlspace impacts indoor air quality

How a crawlspace impacts indoor air quality

How a crawlspace impacts indoor air quality

How a crawlspace impacts indoor air quality

This image illustrates how air moves through you home!

this article will help you understand how a crawlspace impacts indoor air quality of your home.  Air moves in and out of your home via pathways and typical gaps in insulation and construction that are not sealed.  This shows how a crawlspace impacts indoor air quality.  As energy efficiency increases, air exchange decreases resulting in less fresh air coming into you home!  Which is responsible for having stale air in your home.  This is why we suggest every home have an ERV.  See our article on ERV’S.

How a crawlspace impacts indoor air quality!

So if you have an understructure in your home, you can bet that it is in some way impacting your indoor air quality.  This is really an easy fix.  Under structure fans, sealing off openings will fix this problem.  Crawlspaces can have a dramatic impact on air samples as this one Santa Barbara couple found out when selling their home when it killed their multi million dollar sale!  See our article on inaccurate air samples. 

 

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Do I need air tests during my mold inspection?

Do I need air tests during my mold inspection?

Do I need air tests during my mold inspection? The answer on the first time inspection is typically no!  Air tests are valuable tools that an industrial hygienist (mold inspector) can use.  If you don’t take air samples how do you know?  The answer is simple as well as complex.   But in essence, if you FIND a problem during your inspection, there isn’t much reason to spend money to find out what you already know.  Further if there are design or construction defects in  your home, poor ventilation, maybe even something as simple as a front load washing machine having mold in the door gasket, these things will ALL through off air sample results.  Even something as benign as cutting the grass before you take the outdoor sample will cause the outdoor sample to have very high readings which will skew the analysis when comparing to the indoor air sample counts.  Some issues with air samples can be:

  • Results and conclusions are subjective- most people (even laboratories) don’t understand how to accurately compare indoor and outdoor spore counts and read the results-
  • Conditions impact results-  Typically and indoor sample is compared to an outdoor sample and the comparison determines the “issue” or lack thereof inside the room.  If it is windy, or there is old wood, lots of foliage or  other atmospheric conditions that may exist these can all cause the “control” (outdoor sample to be in accurate).  This outdoor sample is what you use to contrast with the indoor sample to make a determination.
  • Data is interpreted and NOT pass fail-  non-viable Air samples (which represent 98% of all air samples collected) are interpreted.  They are not empirical. So there is some individual who is making a subjective judgement on many things that impact the labs ability to actually read the slide from the sample.
  • Collection methods can impact results- Depending upon where the control sample (outdoor sample) is taken could dramatically impact its result and thereby making the interior sample comparison inaccurate.  This is a huge problem
  • False positives/False negatives-  Design and construction defect such as openings that allow air from under the home to enter the home can dramatically impact the spore counts inside of the home.  See our article on how a crawlspace impacts your home for more information on this.
  • Cost a lot of money and only tell you what you should already know

Do I need air tests during my mold inspection?

Do I need mold tests during my inspection?

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Do I need air tests during my mold inspection?

Taking air samples is the default for companies who do inspections and don’t know how to do a comprehensive site investigation.  It is the “easy way out”  The logic is that if it isn’t in the air, it isn’t there is foolish!  The answer is to perform a complete physical examination and moisture analysis.  IF there is mold found, remove it plain and simple!  Don’t be fooled into thinking that you have a GREAT deal because you get air samples.  Worse yet, what happens if you take air samples and they are positive?  What do you fix?  THIS IS NOT what a competent mold investigation should tell you.[/one-half]

 GET ANSWERS NOT QUESTIONS

Do I need air tests during my mold inspection?  Some of the issues with air samples can be:

  • Results and conclusions are subjective-  With air samples an indoor sample is compared to an outdoor sample.  Concentrations of various types of spores are compared as are total counts.  However, conditions greatly skew these results.  Circumstances like wind, debris on the slide and personal bias impact how results are gathered and interpreted.   While air samples can be useful, they should NOT be relied upon to make a decision either way.
  • Conditions change from moment to moment-  We have participated in over 40,000 inspections many of them with air samples.  One common theme of all of the samples we have collected is that results vary widely from moment to moment.  We have seen rooms that have mold literally coated on the walls from floor to ceiling as thick as Christmas Tree flocking and have had the air tests come up NEGATIVE.  We have seen other circumstances where air tests are positive and there is nothing wrong at all.  Air tests are tools but they should not substitute for a good, comprehensive physical inspection by someone who specializes in mold investigation.

Air tests should not be taken in a home that has a raised foundation or crawlspace!

Homes that have an understructure or crawlspace have openings which afford air exchange between the crawlspace and the interior rooms/floor above.  In a Duke University study, they concluded that in a typical home with a crawlspace, as much as 70-80% of the air inside the home has passed through the crawlspace!.  ALL crawlspaces are not good.  There is bacteria, mold and all sorts of stuff present in almost every crawlspace.  Why would you want to breath air from your crawlspace? you shouldn’t.  But this is why if you have a crawlspace, taking air samples inside of a home, will likely only tell you that mold spores (present in EVERY crawlspace) are coming into the home via pathways from electrical, plumbing conduits and other openings into the interior that are not sealed.

Here are some examples of openings that allow air exchange in a typical home

Do I need mold tests during my inspection? Do I need mold tests during my inspection? Do I need mold tests during my inspection?

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So, you think you have mold

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So you think you have a mold issue?  We can help you figure it out.

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